The ambivalent surfer is leaning heavily toward the pissed off side of the fulcrum. It is a rare event for me to paddle out at the main break, and for good reason. Well, in my opinion they are good reasons.
Following the adage of “do something every day that scares you”, I joined the braver and more experienced waterfolk in the line-up. Sat, watched, paddled, floated, then bailed out. Donated a few drops of my own salt to the ocean out of frustration and resorted to sulking on the boat. Average effort. Surfing is a ridiculous pastime...
...until I next paddle out.
Following the adage of “do something every day that scares you”, I joined the braver and more experienced waterfolk in the line-up. Sat, watched, paddled, floated, then bailed out. Donated a few drops of my own salt to the ocean out of frustration and resorted to sulking on the boat. Average effort. Surfing is a ridiculous pastime...
...until I next paddle out.
Happy b-day Radiator Man. So how old are you now - about 376 years old in fish years? Are your scales turning gray? I know, it's tough being a superhero. Wishing you a big, clean offshore day.
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oh, and I'm a blonde now...such a thrill to cross to the light side.
thinking of you always...xxZoe