i've been to bali too

I am home from two weeks of stimulation and interaction in Bali. Most of my time was spent at Mick's Place in Bingin, where I acted as relief manager, dog walker and surf reporter. Yes, I know, tough gig. I had to smile and meet and greet and answer questions; and fend off surly dogs and wanderers that chose to ignore the "guest's only" sign. In between there were new cafes to review and laps of the lagoon to swim. My sister-in-law and two nieces visited for two nights, bringing me treasured family contact and news from home. Sadly, the four kilos of dates from mum and my magazine subscriptions didn't make it into their hand luggage.  Back on island time now, sheltering from the ferocious trade winds and meditating on my fourth day without caffeine. 

I am thrilled to be featured on Carla Coulson's wildly popular blog as part of her "Inspiring Lives" series. You can read the interview here. Thank you Carla for the opportunity to share a little of my life with your readers. 

weather & mozzies, all the important stuff

The wet season was late to start last year, and so is lingering on well beyond its usual pattern. The weather we are getting now is what we were expecting in November, when it was still offshore, dry and dusty. Today is delightfully cool, down to 25 degrees this morning with steady rain. A welcome relief from the suffocating heat and humidity between the showers. 

Anyone who says that only meteorologists should write about the weather obviously hasn't lived in a house without walls, where every change in temperature is noted on the skin, every rustling palm frond and rain drop audible. We do not have glass or doors buffering us from the elements, and being aware of wind, tide and moon cycles is a critical aspect of the surfer's path.  Combine this with a look at the 4-day forecast chart and Buoyweather  and we can predict the future.

Aquaman has been out of action for a week with dengue fever. Taking into account incubation time, we suspect he caught it in Bali on the way over, as it is rife there and relatively rare here - we get the pleasure of malaria instead. Once the threat of cerebral malaria was cleared with his second negative test result, he was left to sweat and sleep the fever off, as there is no treatment other than comforting the symptoms. With 48 hours of sleep and three days of light duties, where I feared his hummingbird totem had been hijacked by a sloth, he is back in action and ready to take on the next swell. 

emergency harvest

A significant low pressure system in Western Australia pushed a solid swell northward, inciting  much rapture from the watermen, and stress for the seaweed farmers. Combined with high spring tides, the surges of water over the reef broke many ropes and stakes, threatening the security of the agar agar plots. As soon as the tide dropped, there was a frantic race to remove as much mature seaweed as possible before the high water returned and swept away their cash crop. The rubbery weed is sun dried on crude racks, then bagged up for sale and shipped to Surabaya for processing. From here, the white, odourless powder finds its way into cosmetics, food and petri dishes worldwide.  

Meanwhile, Aquaman was pulling into freight trains on his 7"6 gun with one unfortunate flight over the falls and into the rumbling darkness of the depths.  This was followed in rapid succession by two more set waves on the head. His lungs wanted to breathe, but he gently coaxed them to hold on a little longer. I'm relieved they did. 

parked up

Back in the garage at the end of another hard day's work. 

Mick's commuter vehicle takes poll position in the pool.

grateful

Thankful for the time, 

for the place, 

for the love. 

the short walk to freedom

Over the years our season here as extended to take in the shoulder months of November and December. One of the main attractions is the opportunity to surf this right hander further south. Most of the expats have gone home, so aside from the odd intruder, it is the stage for the return of the Tom and Gerry show.

I am no gun surf photographer - I don't even own a water housing for my camera, and if I did, I wouldn't be hanging out in the wall, treading water to within an inch of going over the falls.  Plus I get too distracted, turning my lens to the rockpools, trees and shells.  I like to consider myself more of a surf documentary photographer; capturing the moments between the waves, the rituals and habits of Aquaman and his mates.

the walk to work

A fortuitous mid November swell has the boys frothing.  Banking on a long session in the office, Aquaman has employed the full sunsafe superhero costume; the sun is intense, even early in the morning.  As often occurs, John Tinngi's arrival has co-incided with the waves - perhaps his prescence draws the groundswell - and this morning I accompanied the two water boys on their commute to work. I branched off at the kiss-and-ride zone, returning home to sweat it out until the lagoon opens for my afternoon paddle session.

the barefoot studio

Aquaman's been splashing around paint rather than water of late. Surf conditions have been pitiful, but not unexpected for this time of the year.  When a small bump in swell arrived yesterday the southerly blew the bejesus out of it.  Doesn't bother this little mermaid, as my lagoon activities are unaffected by the capricious breeze.

I've been doing my own bit of arty farty carry-on in my studio.  I put together a driftwood "mosaic" and have started on a "busroll'.  To protect my desk from paint, I'm using one of only two newspapers to arrive this year, and have caught up on the Arab revolt and the all ordinaries index from June.  Plenty of aspiration without expectation, with time for tea, cake and friends in between. The decoration of our only solid wall is complete; must be time to extend.

Sasha from Mick's Place, me & Karen

aquaman at large

You can take the surfer out of the water, but...

After great persuasion, Tom agreed to demonstrate his barrel riding prowess for my naff photo desires.  Waves are everywhere when you start looking, so I don't know why we have to live in some backward desert island without a decent soy latte so Aquaman can get his thrills.  You can see here the smile on his face.  Who needs water?  It only makes you wet and turns your sores pustulous.  

Pitching barrels found on our recent trip to Singapore and Penang.

happy birthday aquaman

Aquaman eschews fuss or fanfare for his birthday. Give him a dawn surf and breakfast with his family and he is a happy man.  Although a vegan chocolate mud cake doesn't go unappreciated.

Mum and dad were meant to leave tomorrow, however they were bumped off their flight by government officials (despite having booked it two weeks prior), so they have to depart a day early and take the ferry to the mainland.  Tom offered to go as their escort, as a  night in the "city of dreams" can be an unpleasant experience for the uninitiated.  It  is not exactly what Aquaman had in mind for the remainder of his special day, but at least he is keeping good company.  

May your waves forever be uncrowded, the wind offshore and the water warm.

xxx